Day 11: The Dragonflies

Tuesday: When I woke up, there were hundreds and hundreds of dragonflies swarming outside my window. At first I was in awe at how beautiful they were, and then my thoughts turned to Amanda. I am really missing her today.

After eating a plate of fresh mango for breakfast, we embarked on a day-long journey of doing errands. Professor Haque insisted that we visit his studio before we left, so we did that first. Then, we headed off to the studio of one of Heather's favorite artists, a student of Professor Haque's named Kanak Chakma. Her work is amazing (will post pictures later)! I hope I can persuade Brian to let me bring a piece home with me!

We visited the home of one of Heather's friends--a Bangladeshi woman who attended Miami of Ohio back in the 70's. Then, we hired a driver to take us to do a bit of shopping/sightseeing. I am especially happy with a poster I bought for my office. There is a woman seated in the middle of the poster with arms coming out from all around her. Each arms is engaged in a different aspect of traditional "woman's work" (sewing, cooking, taking care of the kids, etc.). It says in huge letters (both Bangla & English), "My wife doesn't work."

We ended the day with Heather introducing me to her favorite pizza place here. I feel so guilty for eating pizza in Bangladesh, but it was delicious!

Chakma: http://www.newagebd.com/2006/jan/01/newyear06/heroes08.html

Day 10: Chittagong Medical College and the Bay of Bengal

Monday: Our only meeting today was with a physician at Chittagong medical college. I thought the picture was worth posting because it is a good example of how every meeting has ended here--after we take tea, we have a photo shoot. I don't think the picture quite does justice to his office. Bars on the windows, ceilings supported by cracked plaster walls, two fans to tolerate the heat, and two green cabinets for storage. He does all his work without access to a library. He does have a computer, which didn't make it into the frame, but obviously no online academic resources to rely on. In fact, according to him, there are no academic journals (at least in medicine or public health) in Bangladesh (and hence, Bengla). They disseminate all their research findings through the media (like the newspaper).

Again, we packed up all our stuff from the hotel (I am getting to be a pro at this!!) and crammed into the microbus. Salim was kind enough to arrange for a brief detour so I could get a glimpse of the Bay of Bengal. I wanted to dip in my toe, but it was hard to get to the water's edge. Huge, square cement blocks were dumped all along the water's edge to prevent the high tide from washing out a little market and a road that leads to the private shipping docks. Plus, it was high tide, and the waves were crashing in unpredictable patterns. I decided today was not a good day to chance taking a swim in the brown bay water.

We drove most of the day--6 or 7 hours I guess it was. I read my book--The Inheritance of Loss--which helped the time pass. We are now back at the Dhaka Club settling in for the night. The next two days are planned to be low key as we prepare to head back home. We shall see.

Day 9: Chittagong

Sunday

We woke up this morning and paid a visit to a local NGO that will be helping coordinate the communication campaign for the program in the Chittagong area. After our meeting, we all came back to the hotel for lunch. We have a little down time, so I am taking advantage of the fact that the internet in the business center here actually works. For now. But, I feel lucky to have my USA weather update from Mags who has informed me that y'all are a bit warm in the states right now. Boo-hoo.

Tonight, we are meeting a group of doctors from Chittagong medical college. Tomorrow morning, we have another set of meetings and then we will begin the journey back to Dhaka. Everyone keeps telling us that the massive floods that are coming are still at least 48 hours away, so we should make it back tomorrow no problem... Maybe this would freak me out less if I was more accustomed to major roadways being totally submerged in flood waters.

Day 8: Comilla

Saturday :We woke up very early and took a microbus (minivan) to Comilla. After about three hours, we were almost to our first stop, Salim’s parents’ house, when we had a rickshaw incident. Comilla is rickshaw country, and the roads were designed as such. Nonetheless, our driver thought our microbus could just squeeze by the rickshaws coming down the narrow road. He was wrong. As we were passing, a rickshaw and the van became wedged together. The combination of the two completely blocked the road, so after a short while, there were lines in front and behind filled with what seemed to be an angry mob (and rightfully so—they couldn’t get through!). Heather says that the crowds were mad, but not as much as it seemed. At one point, people were picking up the van (with us in it) trying to dislodge the van and the wheel of the rickshaw. The whole thing resolved after about 30 minutes, and they came up with a system for stopping the rickshaws so we could pass down the road.

Salim’s parents live a beautiful U-shaped compound, which is largely empty since all their children live in other parts of the country. They prepared the most delicious tea I have ever tasted. Of course, since I liked it, his mother (picture of her & Salim above) sent me home with some (no complaints here!). They also fed us veggie egg rolls and the sweet that Comilla is famous for—a type of sugared milk soup filled with sugared cheese curd. At least that’s what I think it was. After that, it was off to have lunch at the home of a local physician whom they are trying to involve in their research study. In addition the standard fish and rice, they served sliced papaya. It was the most wonderful thing I have ever tasted (except for dark chocolate…and fresh brewed coffee…mmmm).

We packed back into the microbus and started the drive to Chittagong. It was supposed to be a three hour journey. It ended up being about five hours of bumping up and down and horns honking and the accelerate-then-slam-on-the-brakes type of driving that is so popular here. The trip taught me one thing—dad is on to something when he insists I fill up the gas tank when it is half empty. We stopped at one point to fill up with gas, and after waiting about 15 minutes for our turn, we find out that the electricity has gone out. So, no gas. Luckily, we had enough in the tank to the make it to the next station, but many people were stuck waiting there until the electricity came back on (and you never know when that will be). We did find another gas station, and arrived safely in Chittagong. The city is loud and noisy like Dhaka and the hotel restaurant serves only Thai food. But, it was nice to have a little culinary variety at this point in the trip.

Day 7: The Sari

Friday: The day of rest in Bangladesh, so in order to be culturally sensitive, we did the same. We had planned to get pedicures and manicures since they only cost about $1.50 each (I was thinking of you Mags!), but when we went to the salon, there was no hot water. So, we decided to go shopping instead. We were intent on buying sari’s to wear to the party that evening in honor of Heather & Ananto’s (Salim’s son) birthdays. I admit, I was afraid. But, I decided to try once I found out you actually wear things underneath so even if the whole thing accidentally fell off, it wouldn’t be the end of the world. Luckily, we had Salim’s daughter to help us or it would have been a hopeless situation. Picking out the sari was the hardest part. There are so many choices, and being inexperienced, there was no way to know how it would look. Once we picked one out (and Salim's children purchased us jewelry to match as a gift), it was off to another stall in a market down the road to buy the top and the bottom. The bottom was easy because, like all bottoms here, they are drawstrings. The top was another story. Interestingly, the sari’s and everything that goes with them are all sold by men.

After shopping, we took my first rickshaw ride to the party. Being on the side streets wasn’t so bad. I figured even if I bounced out when we went through a pothole, I probably wouldn’t die. I might be run over by a super thin man on a bicycle or hit my head, of course, but is that really so bad? Then, we took a main road filled with buses and taxis. was a little nervous when the driver turned the wrong way down a one way street and began to weave in and out of oncoming traffic. I know this is not uncommon, but it still felt slightly unsafe.

When we arrived, Salim’s daughter helped us into our sari’s. It took almost half an hour. I had no idea what an art form it truly is. I am always amazed at how beautiful the women look in the sari’s here. Heather looked wonderful, but I felt like I was wearing a deflated floral circus tent. But, it was good fun, and we will be laughing at the pictures for a long while.

Day 6: Meeting Rupantar

Some days, I can't help but wonder if I should drop the whole academic thing and join the circus. Today was one of those days. Not because the research part was too tedious, but because the circus part just seemed like SO MUCH FUN! OK, it's not a real circus. It's Rupantar, a group of young artists (singers, dancers, painters, and more) that work in teams to give performances on social topics like the environment, vaccinations, and such. So, their purpose is both to educate the public, maintain Bangla culture (they specialize in something called the pot song, I think), and train a generation of artists to tackle social issues. But, they sit around and sing and dance and paint all day. I can't help but think...what am I doing for a living again?? I think I am mostly kidding, but it was wonderful and I am so excited that we will be working with them for the study. I took some short video clips which I will try to post if my tech skills allow me (unlikely, but I will try). Interestingly, we met a British woman at Rupantar's office who said she had heard two Americans were in town.

We also visited another computer center run by Salim's friend David. While we were there, we learned that our visit to the village yesterday made two of the local papers. We first found out while Salim was reading the paper during our visit to the computer center and showed it to us. But then, Heather received a call from a woman named Poppy that she had met in the airport on her last visit. Poppy said she had read Heather was in town in the newspaper :) And I thought I was from a small town...

The bus ride back to Dhaka was LOOOONG. We left around 3:30, and didn't arrive to the Dhaka Club until around midnight. I am supposed to be sleeping right now, but... Probably the main reason I am not adjusting is the little naps I get in the day. For example, I slept for most of the bus ride back today. I had to explain to Salim that I always fall asleep on car rides, whether I am tired or not. He responded by saying that the happiest women are the ones that can sleep anywhere. I'm not sure what that means exactly, but I think it was supposed to be a compliment.

When we arrived to the Dhaka Club, Professor Haque had brought us dinner and a bottle of wine in honor of Heather's birthday. Then we had a little bit of chocolate ice cream. It was the first chocolate and wine I have had since I have been here. It tasted great. :)

Rupantar link: http://www.rupantar.org/

Day 5: Sreefaltola and Bagerhat

Day 5 notes—Take 2!

I just finished posting all my thoughts for the day when the internet connection died. It is truly a Bangladeshi day. I have now learned my lesson about hitting “save” frequently. Anyway, I am still not tired (unfortunately), so I will try again, although it might be the short version.

We began the day by driving to a remote village called Sreefaltola. The drive through the rural country was truly beautiful. Instead of back roads lined with shantys, there were little shrimp ponds everywhere. People were bathing their cows in the ponds (using soap!) and goats and rickshaws cluttered the streets.

According to Salim, Heather was the first white woman to ever visit the village 5 years ago. When we arrived, they fed us a sweet that seemed to be a donut hole with veggie filling soaked (ok, drenched) in a simple sugar syrup along with hot nescafe. It must have been at least 100 degrees, humid, and I was wearing the salwar kameez (which is hot!), and I just couldn’t bring myself to take more than a bite. I was disappointed in myself because I think it hurt our hosts feelings. After that, women standing behind me started adjusting my kameez. Then, they twirled me around, took off my dupatta, and arranged it properly. That lasted about two minutes. I am so uncoordinated with the dupatta.

We met with about twelve women, which was so interesting. They were excited to take pictures with us (as you can see, I blended right in--ha!) and look at them on the digital camera. They kindly invited us to visit again soon. But, they hinted that next time, they would like it if we were wearing sari’s. I can’t image me in sari when I can’t even manage the dupatta. I would probably flash the whole village :/

Next, we loaded up in the car and drove to the town of Bagerhat where Salim has an IT center / breast problem screening center. As unlikely of a match as the two of those seem to be, apparently it works very well here. We had a lunch with the staff of fried whole fish and rice. I was razzed pretty hard for not eating my food correctly (apparently you use the whole hand, while I use just my fingers) and not eating enough ( this is quickly becoming a theme. Heather says it was the same with her in the beginning).

I fell asleep on the way back to Khulna, which Salim took as a sign that I need rest. So, he cancelled my afternoon meetings and I napped. They were supposed to call and wake me up, which they forgot to do, so I slept for hours. When I woke up around 9 pm, we had a dinner meeting with local docs who are helping with the trial. Now, everyone is in bed, but I’m not tired! I suppose I will go start on another book. I finished the kite runner in khulna, which I will send to maggie as soon as I return. You will love it. (BTW—did you finish Evening yet? I’m waiting to discuss!!).

Tomorrow we meet with Rupantar and then take the long bus ride back to Khulna. Other than that, I’m not sure what day it is or what are other plans are. I am sort of enjoying having someone else plan out my days... :) More tomorrow.

Day 4: Living on Fig Newtons and the Whole Fish

I spent the rest of Day 3 very sick (which I why I didn't check in!). But, not so sick as I couldn't get my luggage. I was never so glad to see luggage in my life. Getting it from the airport was an adventure, a tale for another day. After we picked up the luggage, we went shopping so I could buy two salwar kameez to wear in the villages. We had a quiet dinner in the hotel and early to bed.

This morning it was early to rise. We checked in at the bus stop around 7 this morning and took the bus to Khulna. Oh brother--what a ride! Speed up for a minute, slam on the brake the next minute, honk the horn for two minutes while nearly hitting a rickshaw or slamming head on into a mac truck. Repeat pattern for 6 hours. The Bangladeshi obsession with cell phones really struck me during the ride (The US has nothing on Bangladesh when it comes to cell phone usage). Phones were constantly going off, which people answered in very loud tones. Heather and Salim say that most people have several phones, but I haven't seen anyone talk on more than one at a time (but fully expect to before long). The practical reason for multiple phones is that some can only call other cell phones, while others can only call land lines. Or something like that.

Needless to say, my tummy was a bit upset during the ride. Thank goodness I didn't eat breakfast! And, I couldn't drink anything during the ride because there wasn't a bathroom. Except the one at the rest stop where everyone ate lunch, but believe me, I couldn't use that one. (And Maggie knows how brave I can be about that--especially after Mexico!). At the rest area, everyone (including Heather) ate lunch. Ours was rice and veggies. But, Heather advised me that this was not a place I could eat, so me and my "unseasoned" stomach ate a few fig newtons and called it brunch.

It was nice to arrive to the hotel (whose name I do not yet know). After a brief rest, we had dinner in the hotel. I ate with my hands (but not very well), but I was proud anyway. The meal consisted of a whole fried fish (I did not eat the head, guts, or bones to the dismay of my hosts), rice, and veggies. It was quite tasty.

I am now off to do my notes of the day and then bed! Hopefully, I will check in more tomorrow.

B: Happy Anniversary!!

Day 3

The nap yesterday was a bad idea. I went to bed after we returned home from the Dhaka Club, which was around midnight. I fell asleep right away, but woke up for good when the prayers started at the mosque next door early in the morning. I have no clock, but I think it was around 4 am because I read for a very long time before I finally called the front desk to see what time it was. It was 6 am. Even though I slept little, I managed to sleep wrong and have a crick in my neck. The good news is that our luggage comes today, and I will finally be able to change my clothes.

The Dhaka Club was quite the interesting experience. We had dinner with a Professor Haque, who is a popular abstract artist here. We also met a small group of men who are all former "somethings." Mostly former ministers or advisors to the government. So, on one hand, it felt impressive that we were meeting people with such influence. On the other hand, one must remember that this country is smaller than most states in the United States, so... One of the men, Mizanur Rahman Shelley, gave me a copy of his book The Windmills of your Mind. The man who sat next to me kept quizzing me on the major US and World finance leaders (he was the former minister of finance in Bangladesh). After I failed miserably, he wanted to move on to "modern" American cinema. The general consensus at the table was that their all time favorite American movie was "Witness." So, when they found out I was from Pennsylvania, they had a number of questions about the life and times of the Amish. Their second favorite American movie of all time? Thelma and Louise.

Supposedly, the club is quite exclusive. I met a woman from Quebec who has been living here for 20 years. She asked how long I had been in Dhaka, and I told her it was my first day. This bothered her, and said that in all her time here, yesterday was the first time she had been invited to the Dhaka club. She didn't want to talk to me after that.

We have a meeting today 10, and then I am not sure what else. Today is our last day in Dhaka. Tomorrow we will take the bus (a 5-6 hour ride) to Kulna. I wish my day was going to start with fresh coffee, hearts cereal, and anna spilling OJ on the counter :/


Dhaka Club: http://banglapedia.search.com.bd/HT/D_0153.htm

Day 2

At least, I think it is day 2. I have NO sense of time or place. We woke up around 9 am (not as luxurious as it sounds, since we went to bed at 3 am). We decided to go back to sleep until 11. It was raining really hard, which was so nice to fall asleep to :) Had rice for lunch. We have to call the people and let them know we are here. Still trying to figuring out what today might hold.

Missing my family like crazy...

Part 2

Well, today was planned to be a day of shopping, but the rain flooded the roads, making that impossible. So instead, I spent the afternoon reading and napping. I even drank a pepsi of happiness (usually a contradiction in terms, but under the circumstances, it worked)from the minibar. The exchange rate is 69 taka to the dollar, so since the pepsi was only 25 taka, I made an exception.

We will be venturing out in a few minutes to have dinner with someone. There are so many names floating around, I am having trouble remembering them all!

But, I am excited to get my first real glimpse of Dhaka...

Day 1

Flew from Columbus to Newark. Saw James Earl Jones in the airport.

Spent all day in the Newark airport. Got to know the terminal VERY well.

Eventually flew from Newark to Hong Kong. I did much better on the 15 hour flight than I ever thought I would.

Our flight was very late, so when we got off the plane, about 5 people were yelling "Dhaka, Dhaka!" over and over again. I thought, "Wow-there must be a lot of us flying there." Nope, just me and Heather. We had a personal escort through the airport, which was nice. The plane to Bangladesh was huge and empty, so it was a relatively nice 4 hour flight. I ate fish and even liked it. :)

We arrived in Dhaka, but our luggage did not.

Checked into the hotel, it's called the BRAC center. Had a hot shower and hit the sack :)